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Ropes
and other Bondage Gear
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1.
How to make a japanese nosehook?
(Gallery)
2. Kinds of
ropes, handling, finishing and so on
In the Japanese bondage tradition,
there are actually only two types of rope that are recognized as standard:
Hemp or jute rope (5 to 6 mm in diameter, three-stranded or, as a new
variant with supposedly higher breaking strength, four-stranded twisted).
Some Japanese manufacturers of jute rope put a rayon thread in the strands,
which is supposed to provide greater breaking strength.
Most of the rope sold in Europe is also manufactured there. Siel that
comes from normal rope mills adhere to the Din standard (DIN EN 1261),
which specifies a breaking load of 260 daN (decanewton) - equivalent to
slightly more than 260 kg - for 6 mm rope (three-strand tightly twisted).
Purchased by the meter from the roll, hemp and jute is quite inexpensive.
At the other end of the price scale is original Japanese rope, which can
be purchased through a few select outlets. In my estimation, good Japanese
rope and good European rope differ only slightly in quality and handling,
but certainly make a bit more of a difference in feel. It should be noted
that Japanese rope is much more sensitive due to the loose twisting of
the rope strands. In addition, there is no definitive confirmation yet
that Japanese 6 mm rope, which is more like 5.5 mm in diameter, has a
fixed breaking load. For safety reasons, it is therefore preferable to
use European standard rope for the main hanging rope.
Diameters other than 5 to 6 mm are also conceivable, with thinner rope
being taken by some fesslers for head and penis bondages (this is more
a matter of aesthetics), thicker rope quickly proves unwieldy for Japanese
bondages, as wraps and knots, for example, turn out much thicker.
Those who like it more exotic
and want to use, for example, sisal or coconut rope, very quickly have
the problem of skin irritation, because this type of rope is much rougher
than hemp or jute. In addition, the breaking load of these ropes is much
lower, so they are not suitable for hanging bondages.
Of course, it is also possible to use ropes made of cotton (no defined
breaking load - therefore not to be used for hanging bondages) or synthetic
fiber.
If you don't buy ready-to-use rope sets and want to prepare your hemp
or jute rope yourself so that it is supple and soft, you will have to
spend some time and energy, but you will have ropes with which you really
have a very personal relationship.
You should consider beforehand whether tying up is worth this effort to
you.
When choosing the right rope, you should be guided by your senses, because
hemp rope smells different than rope made of jute, it feels different
and looks different.
For those who want to make their own personal ropes, I have put together
a few tips here.
2.2. ways of rope treatment
The wet method should be used
for very tightly twisted and hard hemp rope. First, check the rope for
coarse impurities (remove husks and the like) and irregularities (do not
use irregularly twisted pieces). If you boil the rope uncut soft, you
will have quite a tangle afterwards, which is difficult to untangle when
the rope is wet, because the rope becomes more rigid, thicker and shorter
due to water absorption.
Therefore, the first thing you should do is make up the rope, which means
cutting the rope into pieces that are the desired length. The ends of
the rope are secured with a simple overhand knot to prevent the rope strands
from unraveling. The knotted ends thus form a kind of button that can
be fixed once rope layers form a kind of buttonhole, through which the
knot can then be pushed.
The standard length for ropes I use in my bondage sets is eight or nine
meters. Some Japanese fesslers also have a few shorter ropes in their
sets because that is supposed to be more practical, especially for performances
or photo shoots.
There are two philosophies for measuring the length of the rope. One is
based on the passive. Here, the length of one rope should be enough to
make a handcuff behind the back with the rope doubled, and then to be
able to lead the rope twice around the upper body and arms. There should
still be enough rope left to attach the end.
The other philosophy (which is more in line with Japanese tradition) is
based on the active person being able to move the ropes as quickly and
efficiently as possible. If you double the rope again, holding the rope
between your outstretched arms from middle finger tip to middle finger
tip, then the 8-meter rope fits roughly between them. This means that
the active person can pull through almost the entire rope with two arm
movements, which of course has an effect on the speed of tying up.
The next step should be to take the rope double and so fasten it somewhere.
Those who can make rope braids, you can do this instead. Then twist the
rope together as tight as you can. You can use, for example, a wooden
spoon as a lever. Repeat this procedure in the other direction. Now move
the rope back and forth through a snap hook or an eyelet several times
with as much tension as possible. It is a good idea not to just pull the
rope through, but to let it run through the eyelet in a double loop.
Now the rope goes into the washing machine - boil wash cycle. To prevent
it from getting tangled, you should pack the rope rolled up in a laundry
bag or an old pillowcase (maximum 4 ropes per bag). One should use a mild
detergent. By the way, hemp rope becomes lighter with washing.
The rope must dry in peace, preferably at room temperature. This can take
up to five days. Even if it feels dry on the outside after two days, it
is still damp on the inside. To maintain tension in the coils of the rope,
it is a good idea to tension the rope. You can do this by wrapping it
around chair or table legs, and as soon as it sags during the drying process,
tighten it again.
After drying, take a small gas burner (gas stove, gas lighter) or camping
stove (make sure it is stable), the flame should be set to minimum. Stretch
30 to 40 cm of the rope between your hands and pull it briskly through
the flame at medium speed. The superficial fine particles are burned off,
the rope itself should not burn. During this process, one should ventilate
well or, better yet, wear a mask.
If the rope ever gets dirty,
you can wash it again in the washing machine. It is even better to soak
only the dirty area and then wash it out. Then let it dry well, scarf
it again and oil it. Rope that was pulled through the crotch or through
the mouth of the bound person, you can also simply wash in the hand basin
with a little liquid detergent.
I realize that all this sounds very laborious, but the result will compensate
anyone who takes this procedure. In terms of softness, hemp rope feels
more like coarse virgin wool after treatment, making it cozier than any
nylon or cotton rope. It can be slipped very quickly through the hands
or along the body of the bondage victim without immediately causing rope
burn. Jute feels rather a bit like raw silk when it is broken in.
Someone rightly mentioned the
other day that some of the book load is lost when the rope is worked.
But that's marginal and doesn't matter much. After all, the rope is used
in seafaring and there it has to hold what is called for. It is important
that the suspension rope, which carries the main load, is always one hundred
percent. This should therefore also be checked regularly and if anything
is uneven or torn, it has reached its lifetime as a hanging rope.
Tip: To sterilize the rope after contact with body fluids, boil it in
a pressure cooker that reaches a higher cooking temperature for about
45 minutes. Then carry out the usual drying procedure and, if necessary,
re-oil a little.
Blood is removed by placing the rope in cold water for 3 hours as soon
as possible and then washing it out lukewarm. For wax stains after candle
games, use hot water if possible to soften the wax, then you can remove
it.
2.3. General Comments
If you want to wash it (for example if you have used it as torch rope),
use hand warm water and a soft detergent (one for wool). If there is any
blood on it, put it for 3 hours in cold water, than wash the rope with
hand warm water and a soft detergent. If you want to sterilize the rope,
put it in a quick cooking device for about 45 minutes (there is more pressure
in it, so the water comes to 145 degree Celsius). After cooking, it could
be good to wax it a little bit once more. If there is any colored wax
(like candle wax) on the rope, you can use hot water, to soften the wax
and pull it away.
Many people asks what length they need for the first steps in bondage.
A starter kit could be a 24 meter piece, which you cut into pieces: 1
with 12 meter (for body), 1 with 6 meter (for both legs) and 2 with 3
meter (for each hand). If you want do more complicated things like most
of Japanese bondage or suspension bondage, you need much more rope. But
if you got the BONDAGE CD with 20 different kinds of bondage, it is enough
to have 8
pieces of 8 meter rope. It will do for most bondages. If you want to do
a very large spider web with a person in it, between two trees or a bondage
post, you need much more.
But remember, if the rope is too short, you can make it longer with another
piece. But then you need ANOTHER piece. So don't be sparing with the number
of ropes, if you want to do more bondage.
For sure, it is possible to do bondage with straight jackets, leather
cuffs, chains, handcuffs or just with your word. So you need not to become
a rope artist, if you are not into ropes, but into bondage. There is NO
right way for bondage material, as long you can handle it without hurting
your victim by accident.
(translation "polished"
by Folterknecht (david schurman)
Normally handcuffs have very
hard edges, so do not pull too much on them, the nerves and the skin of
your victim will love it. From time to time it is usefull to oil all metal
bondage gear. A second key for bondage gear with a lock should be always
reachable, if the first one was lost.
For your leather gear you should use leather wax after using it several
times, the leather stays smooth and soft.
If you use only chains, check
out that there are no sharp edges. Chains are the most uncomfortable bondage
device, because it is more stiff than rope and it is very easy to clip
skin between the segments of the chain. So it is better, to use the chain
together with leather cuffs.
By the way: Rope and other bondage gear is easier to handle, if you have
your equipment in a kind of order. For rope it is a good idea to put some
small hooks in the wall, for every piece one hook. So you can see withe
the first look wether the rope is a short or a long one.
I am sure there
is much more to say about bondage gear,
but I do not want to write a new book ...
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